August 12, 2021
After our exploration of Cascais, it was time to head up the coast, north of Lisbon, to spend some time in the Silver Coast of Portugal. This area has become more popular over the past few years as the Algarve area, to the south, has gotten really heavily developed by expats and sunseekers. Algarve is on our list to visit, after we finish with the Lisbon/Silver Coast area.
If you look at a map of Portugal, you will immediately see that there is a tremendous coastline along the Atlantic Ocean on the western and southern borders of the country. The southern coastline is the Algarve area. This is 96 miles of fantastic beaches and varying types of beachfront communities. The western coastline, above Lisbon, is about 150 miles. This coast line is a bit different as it is rockier and has more wave action than in the south. Therefore, it is great for surfing. Some areas, such as Peniche and Navaré feature world class waves and competitions during certain times of the year. The beaches are still excellent, but they are colder and much more windy than in the south.
So, we set off to explore Peniche first. This is directly on the coast on a small peninsula jutting right out into the Atlantic. About an hours drive from Sintra gets us there.
Quite honestly, Peniche is kind of disappointing. We first went directly to the beach area, which is extensive, but has no charm whatsoever. It consists of a lot of low rent apartments complexes, a few surf shops, and surfing schools, and a couple of beer/burger joints. Having said that, there were a lot of families there playing on the beach, some surfers, and beach walkers. It is not a bad area. Just not what we were expecting or looking for.
This main beach area is about 5 miles from the actual town of Peniche. We drove through it on the way out. Just a typical little town with a lighthouse. We didn’t even stop to wander about. We headed off to our next destination, Navaré.
Navaré was the polar opposite of Peniche. This little town was totally jammed with tourists of every shape, size, age, and nationality. One of first impressions driving into town was a little old grandma sitting on the side of the road with a sign saying “Rooms for Rent”, in 4 different languages; English, German, Spanish, and French. We thought this was just some enterprising young man getting his grandma to advertise his rooms until we started seeing different versions of grandma, all with the same sign, sitting all over town. There is evidently some company with a lot of rooms to sell that has found its’ new marketing program with Grandma. It is a backpackers’ heaven here with rooms to rent for about 30 euros per night.
Imagine the busiest Spring Break location you have ever been to in your life, and multiply it by 10. This is Navaré in the summer time. Wall to wall people, in the streets, on the beaches, in the shops and restaurants. We couldn’t even find a place to park within a couple of miles of the beaches. We had arrived in the early afternoon, way after most people were already settled in.

While driving around, we notice a tram (or a funicular) coming down the side of the mountain overlooking the seaside. We figured, what the heck. Let’s see if we can park up there and take the tram down. We made it up the mountain, asked a lot of people questions (all in Portuguese of course) and finally found a place to park at the top part of the mountain, near the tram station.
The first thing we noticed when we parked was the local bull fighting ring. Yes, you read correctly, bull fighting ring.

We saw this bull fighting ring advertised all over Portugal. I thought bull fighting was just in Spain and Mexico. Obviously, I was mistaken.
We walked over to the tram station and waited in line for about 30 minutes and finally made it down to the beach level.
The beach was very crowded with a mixture of families and international tourists. Walking the streets was an adventure as there were swarms of people on very narrow sidewalks.
We decided to get some dinner and found that was a bit more difficult than we envisioned. It was now about 5PM. The restaurants had shut down for their afternoon down time and most had not reopened. We found one small restaurant on the strip and decided to give it a try. The owner actually quizzed us about our intentions. Did we want to have dinner or just a couple of drinks. We told him dinner and he graciously allowed us to enter his restaurant and spend some money. We literally saw him kick out several couples that only wanted drinks, not to eat. I guess he was maximizing his table space. That’s fine. Just put a sign out and not be the total jerk he was. Dinner wasn’t even that good. We wandered around a bit after dinner and decided to head back up the mountain.
Nazaré was not for us. I kind of liked the activity, but Andrea just couldn’t handle the hoards of people just literally clogging up the town. So, off to explore more of Portugal tomorrow.









































































